Leaving one’s car in the car park, a lift carries guests directly to the third floor, where the restaurant Kosmo Taste the Mountain is situated; from here one is accompanied through to the Téa del Kosmo, its gourmet offshoot. ‘Téa’ means mountain chalet in the Valtellina dialect, and the atmosphere evokes precisely that of a modern alpine refuge, clad in reclaimed timbers, with a fireplace at its centre and just four tables arranged around it, for an intimate and quietly immersive experience. Booking online allows guests to choose between two or three tasting menus (depending on the season) all built upon alpine ingredients and the careful use of vegetables from the house kitchen garden, interpreted with creativity by chef Michele Talarico. Apulian by origin – as the excellent bread readily suggests – he is deeply enamoured of these mountains and brings to the table a cuisine that seeks to honour every part of the ingredient. Not to be missed is the spaghetti alla chitarra, made in-house with stale bread and dressed with a sauce of dill, garum and trout bottarga, both crafted by the chef himself. Equally unmissable are his vegetarian studies, such as the celeriac or the ‘100% carrot’: dishes that linger long in the memory.