Buoyed by a long tradition that has made it a true institution of the city over the years, this historic venue overlooking the tourist harbour continues to stand as a point of reference for seafood cookery. Today the selection of fish no longer takes place at a display buffet, yet the menu – broad and well-constructed – speaks with precision to the quality of the produce and the variety of what is on offer. Crustaceans, deep-water fish and catch of varying size are handled with respect and expertise, giving rise to dishes capable of conveying genuine Mediterranean emotion. Among the preparations not to be missed are the spaghetti alla Trabaccolara, a historic recipe of the Viareggio tradition, based on tomato and fish, here interpreted in faithful keeping with local memory. The setting is that of a classic and elegant dining room, with professional and attentive service, accompanied by a wine list that is both broad and well-judged in its value for money. A reassuring constant since 1954.