Chef Flynn McGarry’s ambitious restaurant in Hudson Square means business. Dressed top to bottom in sleek wood and boasting ceilings that reach for the sky, the spacious dining room is equal parts warm and luxurious. The open kitchen is constantly in motion to prepare an à la carte menu as well as a formal tasting that’s rooted in Californian sensibilities and tied to the seasons, especially as many ingredients are sourced from the team’s farm in Long Island. From grilled black cod with mushroom and leek rice to cheese pumpkin schnitzel to huckleberry with cherry blossom semifreddo, the cooking boasts a kind of playful elegance that doesn’t feel forced and never wants for flavor.