The chef opened Okuniya Mambei as the third-generation owner-chef of a river-fish restaurant in Nishiki Market. He realised his dream with the help of architects, calligraphers and potters. Décor of rustic simplicity, bold and vigorous calligraphy and tricolour earthenware pots exude a unique personality. The menu consists only of large kabayaki on rice. Eel is grilled with the fat intact and served with rice freshly cooked in an earthenware pot. In true Kyoto style, the leftover rice is topped with eel tsukudani (a preserve using sweetened soy sauce) and hojicha (roasted green tea) is poured over it.