Atla may live in the shadow of its older sibling Cosme, but the casual Lafayette Street restaurant holds its own. The airy, modern room with a steady daytime buzz sets the tone for straightforward, ingredient-driven Mexican cooking. Start with tacos, where house-made tortillas are the backbone of the menu: suadero tacos arrive juicy and well-seasoned with onion, cilantro and serrano, while octopus tacos pair tender pieces of seafood with melted Chihuahua cheese, pico de gallo and morita. Larger plates, like the al pastor gringa with pork and pineapple butter atop a flour tortilla, are designed for sharing. Desserts, including fresh churros with dulce de leche, are a required finale.