The owner-chef’s obsession with dashi soup stock was learnt from his mentor, a Kansai native. He mixes dashi of dried bonito flakes, kombu kelp and clams to impart depth and richness. This dashi is found throughout: in savoury egg custard, soup dishes, hot pots and other Japanese favourites. The chef’s choice of career is down to the influence of his brother, a sushi chef, and this brotherly bond is shown in his vinegared rice, simmered abalone liver sauce and pressed chub mackerel sushi. The menu is a stage on a fascinating journey that we’re going to keep watching.