Winston, in charge of the front-of-house, and Dong in the kitchen, greet diners in their bright, modern bolthole on a busy country road. The accent is on a highly distinctive culinary score and first-class produce. Authentic Chinese dishes are crafted with lashings of skill and know-how, like house dimsum with a sweet and sour sauce or steamed-to-order seabass flanked by a light soy sauce, crispy ginger and rice. The chef consummately juggles with different culinary techniques and has an Asian flair for sauces. It is always something of a challenge to make your choice from the extensive lineup on the menu, but you can rest easy that every dish is not only succulent, but sensibly priced.