Behind a counter oozing Showa-era ambience, the chef plies his trade in his white smock and wooden clogs. As the second-generation chef of Kappo Hassun, he cherishes the history of Kyoto cuisine, populating his menu with dishes inherited from his father and foods associated with seasonal celebrations. Examples include assortments of sweet, steamed and layered egg cakes and burdock-root rolls, deep-fried tofu with thinly sliced veggies held together with hamo meat, and seasoned grilled fish. Gaining ideas from recipes he finds in literature, he brings old-style work to a new generation.