This intimate, 10-seat counter in LES offers a well-orchestrated adaptation of classic Japanese shabu shabu. Quiet and confident, the cooks here literally “swish swish” numerous cuts of prime pork belly, A5 Miyazaki wagyu, and American wagyu in boiling broth before finishing them in sauces like sweet soy, pungent, peppery ponzu and nutty miso. The sheer quantity (and quality) of wagyu alone is impressive and never once feels heavy or overwhelming thanks to lighter pairings like lettuce or mushrooms. At times, Spanish and Italian influences make their way into this tasting menu, but the results are largely convincing. Everything happens at the counter, and the team works to meet your pacing, whether that’s a rapid dinner or a leisurely journey.