The dish of renown here is the bateira, or pressed mackerel sushi, conceived by Sushitsune’s first-generation owner. The fourth-generation chef continues this tradition, now popular throughout Osaka, in which pickled mackerel is pressed onto sushi rice in a boat-shaped wooden frame and dressed with white-sheet kombu. With deft handling, skilfully applying just the right force to unravel the sushi rice, the chef displays the fine skill of long practice. Bozushi, of horse mackerel and conger eel, and temarizushi are exemplars of Osaka food culture. This is the place to sample true Naniwa oshizushi, beloved by ‘Japan’s Kitchen’ of Osaka.