In the minimalist and traditional setting of a fine dining sushi counter, Japanese chef Vincent Gee has a demanding and deeply respectful approach to Edomae tradition. Fish, sourced from Japan for the most part and shored up by excellent Canadian produce, is presented at the start of service in their traditional box. Particular attention is paid to the rice, which is pesticide-free and stored in straw baskets: it is seasoned with a subtle blend of vinegars and its temperature is adjusted to the fat content of the fish. Skilful curing and marinating demonstrate confident technique, enhancing an experience centred on the inherent quality of the ingredients: dazzlingly fresh Nova Scotia shrimp, precisely prepared bluefin tuna, and precisely vinegared kohada with an intense umami flavour.