The spirit of the tempura artisan lies in treading the well-worn path of tradition while enlivening it with unique interpretations. Service begins with light-flavoured fish and grows steadily stronger in taste through vegetables to shrimp. The umami of roasted sesame oil enhances lighter-flavoured pieces; stronger-flavoured items are lightly fried in cold-pressed sesame oil. The meal wraps up with an inventive flourish to heighten enjoyment of the season, such as ‘temcha’, a bowl of rice topped with clam tempura steeped in tea, which may be served in spring, or ‘tembara’, shredded tempura of sea bream mixed in rice, in autumn.