This long-standing restaurant continues to operate with smooth efficiency and serve unfussy, eminently satisfying dishes you want to eat again and again. Start with a gin from the large selection behind the zinc-topped counter then head through to the smart red-and-black brasserie. The à la carte offers a wide selection of confidently cooked, classically based dishes that showcase the kitchen's great understanding of ingredients and flavour. The fixed-price menu offers a wallet-friendly option, while Sunday lunch includes a traditional roast.