The restaurant is run by a chef trained at Sukiyabashi Jiro and a proprietress from the UK. Keen to share Tokyo’s culinary history, the pair have delved into Edo cuisine to shape their selection of appetisers. True to the chef’s apprenticeship, the nigiri progresses from lighter, more delicate fish to those of greater depth and richness. Three pieces of tuna are followed by gizzard shad, its bright acidity providing a crisp finish. The rice, distinctly seasoned with rice vinegar, is another legacy of the chef’s mentor. Inspired by Nihonbashi, the cradle of Edo food culture, the shop embraces a romantic vision of sushi’s origins.