Veering off into the wilds of Mendocino County is certainly a most delightful detour—one that culminates in the dining room of the Harbor House Inn, originally built in 1916 for the Goodyear Lumber Company. Driven by impeccable technique and devotion to sustainability, the cooking is highly original. Chef Matthew Kammerer is devout when it comes to hyper-local and foraged ingredients, elevating not only delicacies like sea urchin, but also more humble items like seaweed harvested from the nearby coastline, or lace lichen plucked from overhanging trees. Compelling, Japanese-accented creations have included a sake-poached abalone paired with a luscious sauce made from its liver. Fantastic sourdough is flecked with sea lettuce and grilled wakame ice cream has been a favorite since the very beginning.