César Ramirez is one of a select few top-level chefs who can still be seen presiding over the stoves night after night. His downtown restaurant brings an understated modern look to a century-old address, and as might be expected, world-class seafood shipped from all over plays a large role in his tasting menu. Recent highlights include tender abalone in a delicate chawanmushi with truffle, ramp and hon-shimeji mushrooms, or lightly seared North Sea turbot and Spanish cuttlefish with spring peas. A masterful hand with sauces and careful handling of fish, shellfish and meat alike demonstrate a distinct level of skill. An eager service team oversees the spacious room where counter and table seating alike offer prime vantage points for watching this kinetic kitchen.