You can't miss this 18C coaching inn with its blue cart on the roof, in a nod to René Barjavel's eponymous book in which he recounts his childhood in this part of the world. The spirit of the region is everywhere, from the terrace shaded by a reed canopy to the generous regional cuisine, examples of which are a terrine of marbled ham, warm potato salad with a spicy ravigote sauce and a decadent île flottante (egg whites in custard) in a culinary lineup as patriotic as the Marseillaise!