This former blacksmith's workshop was transformed into a farmhouse inn by the chef's grandmother. Back then, it catered to workers and locals who came for simple, filling victuals: soup, vol-au-vent, leg of lamb. Under the impetus of Olivier Bellin, who returned to his roots in 1998, the family inn has morphed into a sleek, stylish venue as its inventive, versatile chef has come into his own, brandishing an increasingly strong culinary personality. He works with an extraordinary network of cherry-picked, small-scale producers from Finistère whose work and produce are individually highlighted on the menu. His dishes marry surf and turf ingredients with disconcerting poise: blue lobster, pig’s head terrine and farmhouse black pudding; scallops à la bretonne, bard and lardo di Colonnata…