Picnic tables gift-wrapped with colorful plastic tablecloths and unhurried, nonchalant service readily evoke the casual roadside restaurants scattered throughout Thailand—and happily, so do the multifaceted, punchy flavors. The menu encompasses Northeastern specialties like redolent grilled meats and zingy, crunchy green papaya somtum (pick from Thai or Lao style, with the addition of fish paste and salted crab), but you’ll also find more cosmopolitan staples like drunken noodles and a variety of curries. When it comes to spice level, ask and ye shall receive—you won’t regret having an ice-cold Singha on hand. After a meal of boldly seasoned dishes, lusciously ripe mango over sweet-salty coconut sticky rice makes for a pleasingly gentle finish.