This hip counter from the Id Est Hospitality Group is tucked away in the Dairy Block's Free Market. Chef Byron Gomez leads this team that takes a serious approach to locality and seasonality, including a dedicated fermentation program that highlights both grains and produce. The mastery of the hearth as the primary cooking implement infuses each of the tasting menu's courses with distinct notes. The menu, which incorporates Japanese and Nordic elements, is wholly original and offers a clear narrative embodied in dishes like sea urchin with butternut bisque and pickled squash or, perhaps, a warm, beautifully charred piada served with cultured butter. Not to be missed is an imaginative non-alcoholic pairing that delivers in spades.