With a colorful bar downstairs and a well-measured tasting menu upstairs, this two-part operation stands tall like a wedge of cake in the heart of Back Bay. Arched windows overlooking Columbus Avenue set the scene for this pleasant dining room where Chef Carl Dooley cycles through dishes with notable frequency. Know that no one cuisine calls this global kitchen, and inspiration can swing from the Mediterranean to Asia with seafood as a regular feature. Think Spanish mackerel crudo dressed with a salsa verde redolent of huacatay, or glazed local cod composed with mango pickle, citrus and flecks of papadam. Wine lovers will delight in an astute bottle list as well as a kindly priced pairing. All the while, relaxed service ensures a setting that is anything but stuffy.