This stylish Hell's Kitchen hideaway is an unassumingly ambitious project that highlights Chinese cuisine with flair and class. Under the leadership of Chef Emily Yuen, the focused tasting menu features simultaneously inventive and familiar dishes using top-quality meat and seafood. Wontons with Berkshire pork and tiger prawns float in a soulful broth, while black cod arrives on a disc of silky tofu dressed with a rich, numbing, mala sauce. Riffs on chicken wings and fried chicken showcase a more playful side. To finish, a coconut-forward nian gao (sweet rice cake) is a delightful play on textures. A curved chef’s counter offers prime views into this open kitchen.