Make your way upstairs from the Capucines Brasserie, overlooking the castle of Saint Lô, to this understated, plush establishment. Back in his hometown, Mickaël Marion unveils his keen grasp of inventive cuisine. A steadfast champion of local produce, he frequently forages wild plants and herbs and grows his own veg. His deft score delicately showcases the region’s ingredients: scallops roasted in butter, monkfish served with garden leeks and curly kale. Start the meal with brioche smoked in apple wood and butter laced in the scent of woodruff. Sensitive, distinctive cooking throbbing with flavour.