Ortensia means hydrangea in Occitan and this is how it is spelt in the local lingo! Run by a sister-brother team, Lise and Mathieu, this restaurant is in a picturesque village miles from anywhere. The veteran chef is equally at home with gnocchi in gorgonzola and lobster as with duck from Landes, croaker from Corsica or apricots from Provence. Only the veggies and aromatic herbs are local, like mimosa-style celtuce (stem lettuce) from Pezènes-les-Mines and poutargue (fish roe). Super fresh produce and spot-on pairings depict the culinary scene, served in a bright, airy dining room-cum-conservatory which leads onto a panoramic terrace. Five comfortable very spacious guestrooms overlooking the blissfully peaceful countryside.