Trained by Raquel Carena at her Parisian institution, Le Baratin, Natalia Crozon serves deliciously down-to-earth regional cuisine in this restaurant accommodated in a converted silkworm farm built of white stone. Poached calf brains with lemon butter; pan-fried bluefin tuna steak with tomato ragout; apricot cake... plenty to whet the appetite. Take your pick from the appealing wine list that focuses on natural wines and local Tavel and Lirac labels. In summer, tables are laid out on the pretty terrace sheltered by an ancient cedar tree.