DEBRA has achieved a subtle balance of warmth and intimacy, flanked by hip designer details and a funky soundtrack, courtesy of a vintage turntable (the name is from a song by Beck). The playful, distinctive food is signed Jason Blanckaert and Gilles Bogaert, who slalom between classical recipes like whole roasts and internationally inspired sauces. Kick off with a few appetisers, like tartare of langoustine served with a stock of heads and roe on crunchy toast. Next, expect to be surprised by eel, lacquered in brown ale, then grilled and served with a light, spicy mojo salsa. The distinctive hallmark of this high-profile chefs is their ingredient-led highly personal vision of feelgood food.