In the historic upper section, close to the namesake church, lies one of the most compelling culinary offerings. Within rooms exuding a modern and essential vibe, blanketed in dusky evening lighting, Marco Baglieri’s excellent cuisine becomes sophisticated and almost baroque, paying homage to the urban style of one of Sicily's most enchanting cities. Both the artichoke cooked two ways on brioche with anchovy sauce and the cod with leek foam and cuttlefish ink, embellished with black truffle and basil oil—sampled on our last visit—were exceptional. The scope also extends to meat and vegetarian dishes. The exterior proudly displays a glass-walled cellar showcasing the breadth and order of its selection.