This bustling dining room from Chef Jorge Vallejo and his wife Alejandra Flores is named for an herb native to Oaxaca. A discreet facade belies the lively, engaging experience within, with a hip vibe that is anything but stuffy. The stylish cuisine utilizes local products — including a variety of insects, deployed with subtlety and then displayed for effect. These ingredients are combined with interesting techniques, both modern and traditional, while creativity produces unique compositions. The tasting menu shifts with the seasons but may include striking bites like a tartlet of guajillo-glazed mussels paired with a “seafood mole” made with dried scallops. A sense of playfulness and balance is evident in a dessert of coconut sorbet, caviar and plankton oil.