This Charleston favorite has been at it for more than two decades, but judging by the demand, you’d think they had just opened. Reservations are a hot ticket, and crowds hoping to grab a walk-in seat line up before the front door opens. Despite its age, the food feels anything but dated. This is a kitchen that knows itself, its position in the South and its place in the Lowcountry. Seafood is a strength, and the slow-baked red snapper is a good example of this; here plated with a classic sauce Américaine and wilted heirloom spinach. The chicken liver pâté is accompanied by turnip remoulade and pickled beets. End on a sweet note, say the Carolina Gold rice pudding with Johns Island strawberries.