How time flies! Frédéric Anton has been the chef of the Pré Catelan, the mythical Napoleon III lodge nestled in the Bois de Boulogne and refurbished by Pierre-Yves Rochon with lashings of designer furniture and a palette of green, white and silver tones, for almost 30 years. Born in Nancy into a working-class family, this Meilleur Ouvrier de France learned the ropes under Joël Robuchon. His tasting menu, which stars top-drawer produce (scallops, langoustine, salmon, caviar), is a masterclass of high-flying understatement and razor-sharp precision. The culinary score, which rises to a crescendo of pure perfection, bears witness to the chef’s experience and vision of fine dining. Not to be missed.