If you want to experience a contemporary side of Istanbul, then head to the eighth floor of Hotel Momento. Its large windows afford views of the city's historical skyline (there is an even better view from the ninth-floor terrace!), and the decor is sleek and stylish. The menu revolves around mezze, kebabs and barbecued lamb dishes. You can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen, skilfully blending spices and smoky flavours and presenting each dish with impeccable care. For instance, Turkish bread is served with juicy lamb kebab grilled over an open flame, accompanied by creamy yoghurt, parsley and pearl barley simmered in a tomato sauce with paprika, garlic and onion. Generous, spicy, unctuous and bold: a true Turkish feast!