In Royan, a breath of fresh air is blowing across the restaurant scene, brought not by an up-and-coming young chef, but by a couple in their fifties from Toulouse. Laurence and Philippe left Le Tire Bouchon, their Toulouse wine bar-cum-eatery, to set up shop where she grew up. As they embark on the last decade of their working lives, the exuberant and enthusiastic pair has created a spirit reminiscent of Parisian bistros. Philippe takes care of the restaurant floor and cellar (over 200 natural and biodynamic wines); Laurence crafts fresh, generous dishes that smack of home cooking: puff pastry tart with spring vegetables; sautéed pork cheeks in Welsh onions and soy with mashed sweet potato; strawberry shortbread and mascarpone.