To step inside Da Manuela is to gift oneself a moment of genuine conviviality, especially precious on the grayest winter days, when the warm welcome and proudly regional cuisine have a way of lifting the spirits. At the entrance, Berkel slicers take pride of place, devoted to showcasing local cured meats of great character, while the table receives freshwater fish prepared with skill – as in the charcoal tagliatelle with coarse perch ragù and Arctic char roe – alongside game preparations. Not to be missed are the fried frogs’ legs, snails offered in multiple versions, and the risottos of the day. Reasons abound, in short, to discover this storied corner. Need more convincing? The truly abundant cheese trolley and a cellar attentive to small local producers, yet open to new horizons and Europe’s principal wine regions, will win over the undecided.