On bustling Third Avenue in the neighborhood of Limoilou, ARVI is the stomping ground of chef Julien Masia, a Frenchman from Lyon, who cut his teeth in kitchens in the French Alps. As for the decor in this open-plan space, urban edginess meets contemporary design (exposed brick and concrete). The chefs move between the kitchen and tables, as a trendy playlist sets the mood. Over the course of the set menu (available in "regular" and vegetarian versions), ingredients from Quebec's terroir enjoy their moment: scallops from the Magdalen Islands, lacto-fermented Jerusalem artichoke and local yuzu; sockeye salmon and a delicate beurre blanc with whitefish roe; textures of quince and sweet clover crème diplomate. The chef's signature dish of golden brioche, gravlax-style duck foie gras and birch syrup proves to be a real treat. This is refined modern cuisine in which each ingredient is given its due.