12 May 2026
Share
Sketch is a true original and one of London’s jewels. Maximalism reigns supreme here and ‘colourful’ doesn’t quite cut it. It’s a veritable house of fun that does everything in its power to ensure you never forget your visit. You can come for breakfast, afternoon tea, cocktails and dinner in The Gallery. But in this instance my colleague and I headed for the crowning glory, the Three-MICHELIN-Star Lecture Room and Library, where grandeur and glamour are joined by culinary brilliance. On our latest meal, Sketch showed again why it’s a true original – a unique restaurant in a unique city.
A Riot of Colour
Anyone walking down Mayfair’s Conduit Street can’t fail to notice Sketch. Your first impression is of a handsome Georgian townhouse but look closer and small idiosyncratic touches start to appear and mark it out as being something a little different. I noticed that they’ve recently carpeted the lobby – not earth-shattering news, I grant you, but evidence that nothing ever stands still here. There’s always some new artwork or a new colour to catch your eye.
We were greeted with a smile and led upstairs to The Lecture Room and Library. Regardless of how many times you come here, walking into the room never fails to induce a little intake of breath when the doors are swung open with an understandable flourish. It’s the bright bouquet of colours that initially gets you, from the vast chandeliers to the armchairs.
My fellow Inspector was a colleague over from France; it was his first visit to Sketch, so I enjoyed witnessing a momentary flicker of awe dance across his face. This isn’t luxury left over from a more formal age – this is grandeur and exuberance of the here and now.
Service to Match the Setting
When you’re dining in somewhere like Sketch, the luxury bubble can be easily burst with poor service. Fortunately, the team here are more than up to the task. Service is about personality, confidence, knowledge and attitude. Here at Sketch, they realise that good service does not have to mean formal service; staff are clearly encouraged to engage with their diners and to put them all, whether regulars or first-timers, fully at ease.
It goes without saying that they clearly have an in-depth knowledge of the menu and the make-up of each dish, but it was the pace of the dinner that really impressed – we never felt hurried nor did we ever feel we were waiting, either of which can tarnish any restaurant experience. And it was heartening to receive a fulsome farewell at the end, as good service should not end once the bill has been settled.
Multi-Dish Marvels
Such is the lavishness of the surroundings that, not unlike restaurants with great views, the pressure here is on the kitchen to make their part of the dining experience equally memorable. Central to its appeal is a multi-dish approach where each course comes in several parts served all at once. This is the hallmark of Chef Pierre Gagnaire, who spearheaded the development of Sketch with restaurateur Mourad Mazouz.
When dishes arrive at the table, in assorted bowls and plates, the diner could easily become rather overwhelmed, with some sort of sensory overload kicking in. The skill of Chef Daniel Stucki and his kitchen team is displayed in the complementary relationship all the various elements have with one another: in form, in taste and in texture. They are all different yet all in harmony. This isn’t culinary showmanship or gimmickry – it is cooking of the highest order.
Dishes to Remember
Sketch is somewhat of a rarity among top-tier restaurants in that it offers a wide selection. There’s a tasting menu for those happy to have the decision-making taken out of dining, along with a vegetarian menu and a full à la carte. My colleague and I chose the à la carte to try as many different dishes as possible. After delightful snacks including a lovely plump mussel and three different types of bread, the following dishes really highlighted the kitchen’s talents.
‘Spring’
On a warm spring evening, it was hard to look past this starter. The first impressions were visually stunning, with a lovely crisp artichoke lifted out of the cocotte in which it had been smoked, with a lick of smoke rising up when the lid was removed. It joined buttery morels, crisp turnip and creamy veal sweetbreads. Next came a beautifully weighted chicken consommé poured over Alexander buds; another bowl offered a watercress flan topped with tender scallops and Gariguette strawberries offering a hint of sweetness.No spring dish could be complete without asparagus, and the white asparagus parfait came with a subtle tarragon infusion, with the tips lightly breaded in pistachio powder. Finally, a cylinder of green asparagus with gambero rosso was as refreshing as it was fresh tasting.
This dish did what it promised: it tasted of spring – for me, the greatest time of year when it comes to food, following the heaviness of the winter months. Even though there were several elements, they all worked exceptionally well together. The art of a good kitchen is making the everyday ingredient memorable, and that artichoke will stay in the memory.
Cornish Wild Turbot
Turbot, the king of fish, is rightly prized and rarely disappoints – and this was no exception. Firm to the touch, yet succulent and buttery in the mouth, this piece was delicious and arrived accompanied by clams, tropea onions, cima di rapa and the subtle addition of a little mango which offset some of the richness – a wonderful combination of textures and flavours.To the side came cubes of charcoal-black brioche surrounding a mosaic of turbot skirt, with a hint of rhubarb adding a splash of colour and acidity. Another dish of braised fennel with bacon powder had bite but was juicy and assured in its flavour, while a creamy celeriac bavarois brought all the elements together. Again, all the component parts really worked well together and showed that good food is, by definition, very easy to eat.
Millefeuille Brut
I tried to show my generosity by suggesting my colleague ordered the ‘Grand Dessert’, but in truth I have always loved a millefeuille so the pleasure was all mine. This version was one of the most good-looking ones I’ve seen (the phrase ‘Hang it in the Louvre’ comes to mind) but it also had depth and personality.The Tahitian vanilla mousseline along with hazelnut praline and rhubarb compote ensured the balances between crispness and creaminess, sweetness and subtlety, were extremely well judged. On the side was a wonderfully refreshing rhubarb sorbet, along with Sauternes jelly and a bitter almond foam that filled the mouth. This proved a fine end to dinner.
Inspector’s Tips
- Take your time studying the menus, as each dish on the à la carte has so many elements that picking between them is no mean feat. They’ll all be superb, of course, and the headline ingredient will shine through.
- This is a glamorous restaurant worth getting dressed up for, but in a more modern way than some other restaurants. The suit makers of Savile Row are just round the corner, and Ozwald Boateng feels like the perfect fashion fit for the dining room’s style.
- In a luxurious part of London, you have no shortage of hotels nearby. To match the restaurant, go for somewhere colourful like Broadwick Soho or Ham Yard Hotel.
Related Articles:
Hero Image: The stunningly colourful dining room at Three-MICHELIN-Star Sketch, The Lecture Room and Library, in London. © Rob Whitrow/Sketch, The Lecture Room & Library
