In his new restaurant, chef Tanguy Laviale (previously at Garopapilles) is calmly going about extricating himself from the traditional codes of gastronomy – with the help of his associate, Maxime Courvoisier, a sommelier who thinks outside of the box. Imagine: a short menu, comprising just eight dishes to be mixed and matched as you please (four or five of these small plates amount to a meal). The talented chef's technical approach always hits the mark, from the judicious combinations to the quality produce enhanced without any showboating, not to mention the impeccable garnishes and seasonings. Examples include breaded red mullet, kale and sour cream; line-caught hake with an oyster and mint ravigote sauce. Wine, too, takes centre stage here: over 700 ready-to-drink labels (plus plenty more in the cellar), ranging from big names to small-scale producers – something for every budget! Sommeliers first and foremost, the head servers make a point of promoting young winemakers.