Named after the Basque word for flower, this Roma Norte restaurant is Chef Oswaldo Oliva’s way of evoking memories of his life back in Spain. The multilevel space has handsome wood tables and smooth finishes all over, but perhaps the best seat in the house is right at the chef’s counter, where guests can watch all of the action. This quiet, perpetually clean kitchen prepares only a single, seasonal tasting menu that is loosely based on Mexican cooking but more widely takes culinary inspiration from all over (take the fried chili filled with an eggplant and blue cheese puree or the chinchayote with smoked stingray dressing and ikura). Main dishes range from a huitlacoche taco with requeson, lardo, and an aromatic pipicha oil to their baby corn in a creamy sauce with romeritos and caviar.