The Lalu

Located in the geographic center of Taiwan, Sun Moon Lake is a spectacular, partially man-made wonder. Before 1934, it was two shallow, marshy lakes, one in the shape of the sun, the other resembling a crescent moon, with an island in between — the island of Lalu, home to the indigenous Shao people. But the construction of a hydroelectric plant during the Japanese occupation filled the basin, deepening the lake from 20 feet to 60, and drastically shrinking the island of Lalu. The Shao people were moved to a village at the edge of the newly merged Sun Moon Lake, and the island remains to this day a site for Shao ancestor worship, off-limits to outsiders.

The Lalu hotel, then, is not on the island (now called Kuang Hua), but on the shore overlooking Sun Moon Lake. It has long been a popular destination, owing to its breathtaking surroundings, and was once the temporary home of statesman Chiang Kai-Shek. The hotel was extensively redesigned in 1998, modernized by the Australian architect Kerry Hill, and is a bold design statement, matching the dramatic beauty of the lake itself.

The hotel itself is constructed from Chinese cypress, and indigenous woods make up much of the interior of the suites and villas (the Lalu is an all-suite hotel, with no standard rooms). Each suite has a bedroom, a large living room, and a generous balcony with an unbroken view of the lake and the surrounding mountains. Though still retaining the intimate feeling of a secluded mountain lodge, the hotel is a modern one, with central air, internet, satellite TV, and a Bose stereo system standard to each suite.

Facilities are extensive and modern as well, with 24-hour room service, a heated pool, and a fully equipped fitness center. The “Leisure Center” could pass for a lesser hotel's spa, with hot and cold whirlpools, herbal steam rooms, Swedish saunas, and Japanese baths, all overlooking the lake. But the Lalu Spa is separate, offering Eastern and Western treatments to provide the utmost in relaxation in this most peaceful of environments.

You are not likely to find yourself just passing through Sun Moon Lake on business, but we believe it is worth your while to make a special effort to get there. This hotel would be above-average were it perched on the edge of a parking lot — and conversely, Sun Moon Lake would be worth seeing if you had to sleep in the back of a pickup truck. But to have the two, the hotel and the location together, is a truly extraordinary combination.

How to get there:
The Lalu is approximately a 3 1/2 hour drive from Chiang Kai Shek International Airport. Buses run from Taipei and Taichung and Lalu is a 15 minute drive from the Sun Moon Lake bus terminal. Please contact [email protected] to arrange transfers from the bus terminal.