Two cool marble counters stretch the length of the bar and kitchen and run parallel to mounds of ice stacked with bottles of Champagne and crisp white wines. The food is no less refreshing, celebrating mostly pristine seafood expertly sourced and astutely dressed and seasoned. Think razor clams with giardiniera, stuffed squid with fiery harissa, and wax beans dusted in katsuobushi. Dover sole set in an excellent bordelaise would satisfy a meatier appetite, but then again, how about just another round of freshly shucked oysters or maybe a vanilla bean and passionfruit ice cream sandwich? A small number of reservations are available, but most seats are reserved for walk-ins, so arrive early just before doors open.