A pre-dinner cocktail at the moody 686 Bar upstairs is a smart way to start an evening in the capable hands of Chef Lucho Martinez. Named for his daughter Emilia, the intimate restaurant on the ground floor suits couples well, while the handsome kitchen takes a contemporary look at Mexican ingredients, many of which are seafood. Think grilled young corn served in a sauce made of coffee, browned butter and yuzu or a tostada bearing Veracruz-style fish stew topped with shaved avocado and caviar. The signature dessert celebrates all things mamey, arriving as a Swiss roll and frozen tartlet. Refined, bold flavors come through clearly in this cuisine.