The man behind Shabour is Assaf Granit, the high-profile Israeli chef. Already owner of a dozen restaurants in Jerusalem and London, he also presents Israeli TV's version of Kitchen Nightmares. He set his sights on this 17C building in a lively neighbourhood between rue Saint-Denis and rue Montorgueil. Here, we rediscover his trademarks: a lively atmosphere, rough and ready decoration with metal technical ducts visible on the ceiling, subdued lighting... and, of course, generous and surprising creative cuisine replete with Mediterranean influences, whose freshness gives it wings – for example, carrots with slow-cooked egg, tahini foam, salmon eggs and tzimmes, seared mullet in an eastern take on bouillabaisse, or semolina pudding with orange blossom and crème anglaise with pumpkin.