A Kyoto eatery to drop in often and casually. Izugen is a much-loved tradition from the old days, jealously guarded by its third-generation chef. Rice, the essential base of sushi, is cooked with kombu and bonito. Order the Kyoto sushi mixed platter and savour three styles of sushi: bo sushi with mackerel, hako sushi and maki sushi. Sushi is not hand-formed, so there’s no counter, in true Kyoto style. A picture of a maiko hangs on the wall because, the current chef says, he fell in love with it at first sight; he believes it is auspicious, as the maiko invites customers to ‘maikomu’, or ‘come in’.