In a previous life, this was a sushi shop. The second-generation owner-chef, preparing food at the counter left over from earlier days, apprenticed at a wholesaler, then at a ryotei, before hanging out his shop curtain as a fugu (puffer fish) chef. Wild-caught tora fugu arrive from Shimonoseki. Fugu sashimi arranged in a floral pattern called botan-zukuri is arrayed on celadon plates, and chirinabe hotpots followed by zosui rice gruel are prepared by the book. Patiently aged homemade ponzu sauce, appetisers of fugu skin or jellied fugu, and stone-grilled fugu show off the chef’s individuality and spirit.