Opened in 2008, the flagship restaurant from Chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman remains one the city’s most enticing efforts. Divided into several small rooms, the cozy house in Brookhaven Circle celebrates Italian cooking with Southern influences. Appetizers and pastas are the strongest features, starting with the signature house breakfast of pork belly, pork rinds, polenta, and a runny egg. For a lighter beginning, swing for the tuna tartare with sundried tomatoes or tender squid stuffed with Barese sausage and set in a sharp puttanesca sauce. Mafaldi coated in a rich bianco veal ragu is as gratifying as potato gnocchi tossed in a garlicky spring pesto.