Near the edge of the Kanda River stands a traditional detached house. The red-brick wall harks back to a time when such things were regarded as symbols of Westernisation. Unaju (broiled eel on a bed of rice in a lacquerware box) includes a whole eel; the Deluxe version includes one and a half eels. With only a small difference in price, we recommend the latter. The eel is cut and slowly steamed only after you order, so expect to wait an hour for your dish to arrive. Spend the time absorbing the restaurant’s history, learning about eels or enjoying a snack or two with drinks.