09 February 2026
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When discussing The Pullman in Galway, which has just earned a triumphant first MICHELIN Star, it would be tempting just to think of it as ‘the restaurant in the train carriages’. After all, its unique setting inside two historic Orient Express carriages really is stunning. But if I focused only on that, it would be a disservice to Chef Angelos Vagiotis and his team, for it’s their cooking that has earned the Star. Add in the painstaking restoration, smooth service and glorious views – and The Pullman rises far above a simple gimmick and into a truly special experience.
A Slice of History
For all I’ve just said, it’s still worth pointing out how wondrous the setting at The Pullman is. The two former Orient Express carriages – one named Leona, from the original 1927 train, and the other known as Linda, from 1954 – are located on the grounds of the Glenlo Abbey Hotel & Estate. When my fellow Inspector and I arrived, it was nighttime and the carriages were lit up, looking especially magical, but we could still admire the views of Lough Corrib and the adjoining golf course.
Once we stepped inside, I was struck by the beauty of the carriages’ painstaking restoration. Vintage suitcases rested on the original polished brass luggage racks; original light fittings cast a romantic glow; individual table lamps added to the intimacy; and crisp tablecloths evoked a bygone era of formal elegance. In the older carriage, ornate wood veneer marquetry added an extra layer of luxury. This is the kind of meal out that you’ll want to dress up for, where your own glamour will be returned tenfold by the restaurant itself.
The Stage is Set
The train-carriage setting at The Pullman gave it an inherently theatrical and immersive feel, which was enhanced by the excellent service team. As I arrived at the hotel’s entrance, a top-hatted doorman pointed me in the right direction, before I was greeted at the train door by a cheerful “welcome on board” from a waiter. The sense of occasion was palpable, heightened even further inside when the seven-course tasting menu was introduced and another member of the team asked, “Are you ready to join me on the journey?”
From this point on, the service was pitched at just the right level to be engaging but not intrusive. The dishes were presented with plenty of explanation and were sometimes served on vintage patterned plates, again harkening back to the glory days of the Orient Express. Despite a traditional formality to the aesthetics, the team put everyone at ease, and we were even invited to stroll through the carriages if we so wished.
Dishes to Match the Setting
Having been wowed by the carriages, it was such a joy when the tasting menu began and it quickly became clear that The Pullman was no example of style over substance. American-Greek Chef Angelo Vagiotis’ talent shone through from the first snack to the last of the petit fours. He constantly championed the Irish larder with technically adept dishes that showed superb balancing of flavours. Here are four of my favourites from the seasonal menu.
Goatsbridge Farm Trout – Golden Beetroot, Horseradish, Coastal Herbs
I liked the sheer simplicity of this dish, and it was emblematic of Vagiotis’ absolute confidence in both his ingredients and his technique. The ribbons of cured trout delivered excellent flavour and were layered with lightly pickled slices of golden beetroot. What really elevated the dish was the terrific, glossy butter sauce with trout roe, whose salty pops provided a perfect finishing touch to this assured dish.West Cork Turbot – Champagne, Rossini Oscietra Caviar, Vanilla
The first thing I noticed here was the enticing aroma of vanilla, which became more subtle when eating and complemented the rest of the dish perfectly. Again, this dish was centred around superb Irish seafood, this time meaty turbot. A pure-white slice was accompanied by a contrasting piece of the golden skirt, while mushrooms cooked in seaweed butter added a gentle salinity. In keeping with the surroundings, a generous serving of caviar and a frothed champagne sauce brought the luxury.
Skeaghanore Duck – Preserved Cherries, Tamarind, Miso Mustard
There were several elements to this dish but they all worked harmoniously, and it was a prime example of the kitchen’s ability to combine flavours. The tender duck breast was served with a sausage made from the trimmings, adding a textural contrast, while pickled radish brought an acidic touch, in turn balanced by the sweet, fruity cherries. Binding it all together was a classic jus, enriched with cubes of duck heart and gently sweetened by tamarind. Miso mustard added a final complementary note.Pear & Caramel – Sichuan Pepper, Sheep Milk, Puff Pastry
A classic mille feuille, this final course again showed the strong technical skill of the chefs. The golden, flaky pastry was just perfect and all the complementary layers of flavours worked together seamlessly: caramelised pear purée, vanilla cream, a delicious sheep’s milk ice cream and finally a light caramel syrup. It was a wonderful ending to a special evening.
Inspector’s Tips
- A seat anywhere in The Pullman is gorgeous, but I would ask to sit in the older carriage (Leona) if possible, and the tables on the right-hand side offer the best views of Lough Corrib. For a romantic celebration, the individual ‘Agatha Christie’ compartment is perfect.
- Complement Vagiotis’ superb cooking with one of the two available wine pairings, or a bottle from the concise yet quality list. The team provide excellent wine service and use the finest glassware for extra opulence.
- If you want to enjoy The Pullman’s terrific all-round experience for yourself, ensure you book well in advance as the train carriages are not that big and space is limited.
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Hero Image: The trout, beetroot and horseradish dish that our Inspectors enjoyed at MICHELIN-Starred The Pullman in Galway. © Philip Browne/The Pullman
