Owner Marius Tröndle has a decidedly ambitious man at the helm in Fabian Obergfell. The chef delivers modern cuisine, cooking with great sensibility, finesse and consummate precision. Often he pares back his dishes to just a handful of components, and the result is a wonderfully harmonious balance of flavours – one highlight is the superbly roasted calf sweetbread with a crunchy, paper-thin crust and a creamy, melt-in-the-mouth centre, served on a vin jaune sauce with pointed cabbage and garnished with pickled grape halves and crispy pointed cabbage leaves as chips. The hors-d'œuvres whet the appetite for the seven-course set menu, which is accompanied by well-curated drinks pairings, including wine or alcohol-free options, some of his own creation. The service is pleasant and professional, the interior tastefully done out and truly cosy. The staff address diners informally, which also contributes to the relaxed atmosphere. Overnight guests are accommodated in very pretty guestrooms in this charming house dating from 1603 and served a superb breakfast, which you order the evening before. Top tip: the eggs benedict.