The peaceful countryside of Voeren stretches out around the 19C farmhouse whose terrace commands a breathtaking view. Exposed rafters do add character, but don’t expect anything more than that in terms of rusticity, because the casual interior in fact sports designer materials, an open wine cellar and lounge music. Upstairs, two one-room flats offer the chance to relax in style after your meal, but, before that, let’s do justice to the high-flying talent of Maurice Huynen and Peterhans van Harinxma. Their cuisine is both heartwarming and polished, regional and international. Examples include local trout from Commanderie 7 crafted from head to tail in two big-boned dishes: first a powerful stock made from fish bones, with a crunchy medley of fennel, leeks and celery. Then a fillet enhanced with a ‘green’ recipe, flanked by a sauce au beurre, marinated wild garlic, fish roe, grated dried salmon trout and a final sprinkling of parsley and nasturtium leaves. Chef Maurice shows infinite respect for the ingredient as he carefully crafts powerful sauces, while Peterhans, in charge of the front-of-house and a sommelier, adds a hint of classicism, courtesy of his cellar of white Burgundies, without forgetting the odd local and international tipple.