You might not expect to be served ice cream in the middle of savory courses, but at Chef Dave Beran's Seline, surprises are the hallmark of a deeply personal meal. His ambitious tasting menu has high-concept underpinnings, meditating on themes like the progression of the seasons. A meal may begin with the likes of a miniature garden of edible succulents in a soil of caraway rye crumbs, dusted with a fine cauliflower snow. Black cod infused with wild bay laurel, paired mussel cream and fennel offers classic sophistication, while lamb loin with burnt strawberry jus and wild greens shows a playful edge, made even better with a house-made brioche brushed with pork fat. The chef's signature Osetra caviar served atop toasted hazelnuts and a coffee anglaise is pure indulgence.