Aurélien Largeau is now bringing his culinary creations to life on premises that used to accommodate Sillon, having brightened up the intimate setting of this restaurant a stone's throw from the ocean. The chef from La Rochelle lets Atlantic fish and seafood take centre stage, leaving meat the supporting role. A veritable maritime voyage, his multi-course set menu gives pride of place to Breton shellfish, wild seaweed and even traditional recipes – while also referencing the Basque Country. Exceptional ingredients (but also humble sardines) are adorned with intense jus (the red mullet is a case in point), and textures are juxtaposed (as with the lobster). Even the desserts acknowledge the sea, cleverly combining sweet and briny notes (pear and sea fennel jus). A precise, lively cuisine that moves to the rhythm of the tides. Alongside him, Mathilde Fesneau brilliantly orchestrates proceedings front of house.